Before putting the tub on the chassis, I have a small punch list of items that I need to accomplish. Some projects must get done before the tub is on while others are just easier to do (to reach those tight areas!) while the tub is separated from the chassis.
One item was a small broken bolt stuck in the bell housing for the clutch inspection cover. Yes, it would have been A LOT easier to make that repair before I attached the bell to the engine and inserted it in the chassis, but I forgot about that one! Drilling it out was fairly straight forward, however, I needed to take particular care not to get any of the steel chips into the bell housing or let the end of the bolt fall in there. For that job, I entrusted Bubba's friend, Ol' Mr. Duct Tape. And a lot of it.
Another simple task was located the five spots that the wiring harness's clips get attached to on the underside of the tub. Two of the spots had small, broken screws inhabiting the holes. I anticipated having to drill them out, as well, but when I hit them with my centering punch they graciously popped into the hat channels. I then just re-tapped the holes and screwed in the clips. Just before plopping the tub on the chassis, I will run the main harness from the light switch to the rear tail lights. It runs the length of the tub and is darn near impossible to route with the tub on the frame.
Another task I wanted to do (but could be done with the tub on) is to place the eight washers alongside the upper and lower mounts of the shock absorbers. This was a bit of a challenge since I do not have the specific issued tool for the job. There are rubber insulators around the circumference of the mounts and the washers need to compress the rubber deep enough to be able to slide cotter pins into the retaining holes. For this, I got a bit creative with my garage tools. I ended up using a large clamp, the body of a pulley puller and on occasion, a wrench socket. It was a bit time consuming since the pulley puller body was only a fraction smaller than the diameter of the washers, so it kept wanting to slip off. The other tricky part was getting washer in place by the shock mount below the battery tray. My clamp could not reach that area, so I improvised with a large oak dowel that I had in the garage. Yes, it was totally a Bubba moment in disguise!
|I used the clamp and puller to press the washer to the shock absorber bushing in order to expose the cotter pin hole. |
This picture shows a successful procedure with the cotter pin in place!
I tried my favorite watering holes for research before opening it up, but I was a bit disappointed at the lack of research available. Anyhow, I needed to do it and I guess I had nothing to lose with this one. I just took my time and tried to think each step through. Here is what I found...
|Pretty much the same picture except in better light. There is still more surface cleaning needed.|
|The two cross bars are just sitting on springs and fall out very easily. I used emery paper to shine up the brass connections on the crossbars, as well as the connections on the underside of the top.|
|I have the multi-meter connected to the circuit breaker. I am a bit suspicious of this guy and it is just based on its rusty appearance. I cleaned it up and here I am testing the lines for continuity...and it is present.|
My punch list is slowly dwindling. All that is left is to dump some oil in the transmission and transfer cases, front and rear axles (yes, I should've done this a long time ago!) and then I would like to fill the brake lines with fluid and bleed them from air bubbles. Again, these things can be accomplished with the tub in place, but it will be easier with it off!
Speaking of oils...I learned yesterday of good, better and harmful oils to put into one's antique gear boxes and axles. YIKES! Currently I have the wrong stuff (if I am to believe the hype) in my good jeep. I'm dumping that crud out and putting the new stuff in both jeeps. Yes, of course it costs more $$, but if it is better for the parts, then in the long run it is worth it. And if it is hype, it won't do any harm except cost a few more dollars spread out over several years. But the gist of the hype is that today's modern gear oils have elements within them that will eat away at the brass and bronze fitting inside of the transmission. Those parts are getting more difficult to source and I would prefer to have them last until Jack and Nora inherit the jeeps! For those wondering what I bought:
|Hypoid GL-5 80-90 wt. for the axles, GL 1 90wt for the transmission/transfer case and some Dot 5 synthetic for the brakes.|