The Inner Windshield and Jerry Can Straps on 15 Dimes.

The inner windshield that originally came with this jeep is in REALLY sad shape.  Perhaps one day I will tackle its repairs, but not today.  Instead, I am using another inner windshield to complete this project.  This one is fairly easy...it just needs a solid cleaning and removal of all of the "goo" that was used to hold the long gone glass panes in place.

Here is the replacement inner windshield before its day at the spa.

One of the broken screws that need to removed.

From this distance, it really doesn't look too bad. 
It looks so much worse in person.

Lots of gooey caulk that needs to be scraped.

Another view of the channel.

The corner is just a bit askew.

Let the cleaning commence!

I drilled the broken bolt out, but I carved it just a bit too wide
 so that I am unable to re-thread it to hold the original "replacement" bolt.

A cleaner channel!

Primed...

Painted...

The other inner windshield frame (that was in too bad of shape to repair right now) had two panes of glass still intact.  Although they aren't original, I thought that I would use them for the interim period.  All was going well until I was removing the LAST corner of the bracket and like a dumkopf, I used the ABSOLUTE wrong spot for leverage...the corner of the window.  CRACK goes the glass.  However, the pane still held its shape and I was able to remove it without it disintegrating.  I used some glass glue in a vain attempt to stabilize it.  I figure for now, it will be reused and just add more of that "character" that seems to be defining this jeep!

The edges are taped.  Instead of using the official rubber window tape,
 I am using fabric tape (3 strips deep) to secure it inside the channels.
This is not the infamous cracked glass.

Both panes taped and waiting for the upper channel bar to be bolted in place.

All systems go!  And if you are wondering, the cracked corner now sits in the lower passenger side. 

I used a razor blade to carve the excess tape away from the edges in order to give it a cleaner look.

 My other simple project I did was to make a Jerry (or is it Gerry?) can strap for less that $2.00.  Actually, it was closer to a buck fifty.  No, it isn't 100% factory correct, but it could be stretched to period correct if pressed.  I used an old M1 Garand canvas shoulder strap that I bought locally for $1.00.  I measured it against the straps on my GPW to get the correct lengths.  After cutting and threading them through their respective holes, I used four split rivets on each piece to secure the strap against itself.  I have an old buckle that I could have used, but that would have meant doing some sewing and I just didn't feel like going the distance on this one.  Instead, I just used the buckle that was already attached to the sling.  The hardest part of this project was poking the awl through the canvass...and it wasn't that difficult to do!

The straps are attached. 
Pictured inside the Jerry Can holder is a rolled up M1 sling and a set of the split rivets that were used.

Although not correct, the canvas strap is VERY weathered!  (i.e. character!)

The other item of note is that I finally got around to wiring the back end of the jeep and installing the tail lights.  It wasn't so monumental that I thought it deserved any pictures.  Sorry.

 

I have finally ordered a gallon of paint, so the next big chart topping order will be to give it another coat or two and make it (basically) all one color.  That will be fun to see!  I'll let you know when it happens.

Sporting My Speedo (speedometer, duh)

Let me make it very clear before continuing forward...you will not see me in a speedo.  With that said, I'm sure I will lose a couple of readers, but for the rest, here is what little bit I did to the speedometer.

 

The speedo that was in this MB's dash is a wartime correct Motometer speedometer.  I know this because it said "Motometer" on the backside.  Wartime correct because it has the trip meter and 60 MPH max.

 

When I pulled it from the dash, I could reset the trip meter without any issues.  That was a good sign.  However, the negative part is that it appears that somewhere inside, something is hindering the the gears from spinning.  The overall condition looks good, so I'm hoping there is just some hardened gunk jamming the clock-like gears.

 

It all begins with prying the bezel away from the canister and then removing a few token screws and such from the rear.

As is like the day I pulled it out.

Using a paint can opener to begin prying the lip away from the canister.
Patience and a few rotations around the loop will make it nice and neat.

The backside.  When removing it from the dash, I broke the upper part of the mounting screw off. 
That was an upsetting moment.  (broken mount at the 8:00 position)

This is the order that the small parts go for the trip meter reset switch.

Bezel and glass have popped right off.  Note: be weary of the needle and the 10 and 20 marks...
...they are painted with some sort of radium so they will glow at night.

The number dials look great, as do all of the internal gears.

Nothing particular, just pictures to help me remember where things go...if I need to disassemble further!
Check out the small brass plug at 3:00 o'clock on the large threaded shaft at the bottom of the mechanism. 
This is the oil hole and will come back into play in a few moments!

I wonder what the "L" was for?

Internally, it looks very clean.

Watch makers hand puller in place to remove the needle.

Originally, I had grandiose thoughts of removing the needle and then taking the entire mechanism apart for a deep, thorough cleaning beyond the magnetic housing.  I could not get the needle to budge and I had read too many horror stories of needles snapping off the shaft.  I didn't have the courage to do anything that I felt was excess force to remove it.  I stood down.  I hope Aramis in Croatia isn't too disappointed in my lack of courage.

 

Instead, I removed the brass plug on the rear side and was able to spray a little carb cleaner in there and pull out (with a dentist's pick) little bits of dried greasy gunk.  This is the oil hole and it was supposed to have a wick in it.  I did not see a wick anywhere and it wasn't like there was a whole lot of room for anything to hide down there.  I could now use my thumb and forefinger to spin the mechanism that controls the needle.  I let a few drops of 3 in 1 oil go down the hole and the gauge began to spin without any resistance.  I then inserted the end of a broken speedo cable into the rear hole and could spin the needle with ease.  I'm hoping all it really needed was some fresh oil.

 

The gauge was then carefully reassembled.  I cut the shank off of another screw and welded it onto the broken wing nut stud and filed it down so it could be used again.  The gauge was then fitted with the speedo cable and secured in the dash.  Before attaching the other end of the cable to the transfer case, I spun it for good measure and watched the gauge reach 50 MPH.  Sweet. 

 

And do not fret; the cable was thoroughly cleaned after picking it up off of the road from the other day (the lost jeep part) and graphite powder was reapplied before running it though the sheath.

The dashboard with all original working gauges!
Well, at least 3 out 4 work...I don't have a gas sending unit to check the fuel gauge.

 

More Odds and Ends: Bolt-on Bonanza!

I just realized how long it has been since I have given any updates.  I have to admit, that nothing I post now can equal the excitement of the FIRST DRIVE that was talked about in the previous post.  Although that has been, by far, the pinnacle achievement of this project, the project is still far from being finished...if, at all, ever finished!  I say that because there are still things on my good jeep that I would like to fix, replace and change and it has been six years since I started working on that one.  That is just the standard operating procedure with antique vehicles.

On a side note, I do have a story to tell about the aftermath of that historic first drive.  It is funny, at least, when my wife tells it.  The following morning I ventrured into the garage and did a bit of snooping around expecting to find some massive puddle of something somewhere underneath the jeep.  Well, nothing evil was lurking, so while I was patting myself on the shoulder for being such a superb mechanic, I saw the speedometer sheath hanging below the transmission, resting on the floor.  Although the speedometer is not in the dash at the moment, I have the sheath routed through to the transfer case.  (If you listen closely as I drive the jeep back home in the video of the previous blog, you can hear the "clink, clink, clink" of the speedo sheath dragging along).  Anyways, I grabbed the end of the sheath and realized that the actual cable that runs through the sheath and connects the speedometer to the transfer case was gone!!  Oh, oh....I've lost a jeep part!  Well, to wrap up this sideshow story, I walked down the street and found the cable lying in the road where I made the three point turn.  So, when I tell people that I have actually driven the jeep, Sarah chimes in with "and he dropped parts all along the way!"

 

Anyhow, I have gotten over (barely) the desire to stand down on this project now that it drives.  As always, I soon grow weary of the "current look" of the jeep and want to once again approve upon it.  So, I've been slowly grinding away at many of the bolt-on parts.  Some of them were packed away in boxes, and others had to be retrieved off of the parts jeeps.

 

Here is the list:  grab handles, rear bench seat, driver's side tool box lid, some of the top bow hardware, Jerry (or Gerry?) can holder, spare tire holder, bumperettes and the trailer socket with protective cover that fits into the driver's side tool box.  Last, but certainly not least, is an original front bumper to take the place of the one that "pranged a Jerry at a crucial intersection."

 

Bolt-on part staging area.

Bench seat (before)

Bench seat underside (before)

Bench seat cleaned

Ahhh...not so pretty from this angle! However, this is another shot of the cleaned bench seat.

At this point, I had to make a decision to either repair the swiss cheese or leave it be.  If I repair it, how should I go about it  The last bench seat I did looked very similiar to this one.  However, being very green to the situation, I feel like I took the wrong advice and went down a path that I now regret:  I used fiberglass.  (Yes, this is one of those things that I want to redo on the good jeep!)  I decided that the rear seat will end up being used so infrequently that I am going to stall on repairing the metal the correct way.  For now, I will trust that the seat cushion will provide the extra support and it will be fine.  This repair will be made eventually, but not immediately.

Bench seat primed and the tool box lid, too.

At this point, it is very easy to see everything that is newly cleaned and installed!

Just another shot of the "bolt-ons".

Trailer sockets.  The one I am restoring is on the right (in many pieces!). 
A second complete socket sits on the left in order to give you an idea of how this thing goes together. 
Again, I got carried away disassembling and forgot to take pictures.

Cleaned, re-assembled and installed in driver's side tool box.

A look from the rear of the jeep.

A looksy inside.  I used an old tire tube to cut the rubber gasket. 
That would be Sharpe marks that you see, since I obviously can't cut on the line.

The last major sub-project is the bumper.  I removed this one off of the last and worse looking jeep that I dragged home.  Although it is virtually a compete, original bumper, it is in very sad shape.  It is bent in a pathetic figure "S" shape and has holes and separations in various places.  All of these joints need to be straightened and welded.

Front bumper (before)

Front bumper upright (before)

Most of the repairs were straight forward welds after straightening the bumper.  The torn edges were pressed back into alignment prior to welding.  There is one spot on the bottom portion of the bumper where the bolt hole has rusted away.  I'll be cutting that area out and replacing it with good steel.

Small area on the underside that will replaced.

Some of the weld marks that still need to be ground down and smoothed out.

Front bumper just siting in place.  It is a lot straighter, but still retains some of its "character".

 

In order to mount the bumper, I need to make sure the four front frame gussets are in proper alignment. The driver's side seems fairly straight, however, one of the bolt holes has been ripped away on the lower gusset. I have cut the replacement corner off of one of the poorer gussets on one of the parts jeeps and it will be welded into its propert place.

Soon to be replaced area!

Area to be cut.

Doner part from parts jeep clamped in place.

Not quite good as new, but should clean up fine.

 Now, on to the last bad spot on the bumper...

I began to cut the area away when I remembered to take the picture for posterity's sake.

New metal in place. 
I will drill the hole once I finally get the bumper in place on the jeep and three of the four bolts in their proper place

I suppose, compared to the rest of the bumper, the rear edge is too straight!

It is now time to grind away all of the weld marks to see the results and then I'll prime.  I can't yet install the bumper because I am awaiting the arrival of a package-o-parts that contains the reinforcing block of wood that fits inside the bumper.  It should be here next week.  For now, let's check out the finished product.  I'm very pleased with it.

Primed bumper sitting in place.  The jeep kind of looks like it has a black eye or a pirate's eye patch. 
The reflective materials inside the head lamp had turned black at some point in its life. 
Not quite sure what to do about it, except stomp my peg leg and say" Aaarrrggghhh, matey."

It isn't perfectly straight, yet it isn't an "S" anymore, either! 
However, it does fit the overall "lived-in" condition of the rest of the jeep.