I haven't really done much of anything that deems noteworthy lately. I cleaned up and repainted the oil filter. That was an adventure in itself trying to get the lid bolt loosened. I resorted to my old tactics I developed with the rusty transfer case: using leverage and tie-down straps to keep the canister secure. I had to strap it to my work bench and then use my breaker bar to free it!
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| Oil filter canister looking rather nasty. |
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| Canister strapped to the workbench and the breaker bar is ready. |
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| All is right in my world. Everything disassembled without anything breaking and clean! |
Once I got it to budge, it was easy street. However, when I removed the filter and looked inside, I thought "Not too bad." And then I realized the "bottom" of the canister wasn't really the bottom, but instead it was a firm layer of greasy, sludgy, oil...crude dinosaur oil, perhaps. And it was nasty to wipe out! In the end, though, cleanliness prevailed. It all got painted anew and then mounted to the engine.
Next, I set my sights upon disassembling and cleaning the carburetor. I have a rebuild kit, but I only replaced a gasket and a plunger. The previous owner told me it was working (when, who knows!), but I thought I might just give it a go first. If I am unsuccessful, it will be no big deal to take it off and give it a thorough rebuild. At least then, my hands won't get as dirty!
The carb basically comes apart in three major sections: upper, middle and lower. Components break down even further within each section. I took it apart, cleaned and rebuilt each section at a time...it is less confusing for my simple mind doing it that way.
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| The carburetor is looking its age here. |
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| The plunger (bottom of picture) is the part that definitely needed replaced. |
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| Everything is reassembled and the base has been freshly painted per original specifications. |
Following the carburetor, I installed the exhaust pipe (exiting out of the exhaust manifold) and snaked it around and below the transmission so it would exit along the passenger side of the jeep. With the flex-pipe in place, I was then able to mount the transmission shield. Four large bolts hold it to the transmission cross member. Three of the four were fairly easy to reach. And then there is always that "one" that makes a simple job aggravating. Maybe it wouldn't have been so aggravating if it hadn't had been the most humid day of the summer.
Finally, the last item on my punch list was to drill out a broken bolt that holds the fan to the water pump. It wasn't complicated, but I had to exercise A LOT of patience to get it. I did, and then retapped the hole. The fan blade was cleaned and installed. Now it is REALLY looking like a jeep engine.
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| Engine block is accessorized! Check out the splash shield that is anchored from the frame between the starter and generator...that is original paint, baby! Looks like late war, semi-gloss. |
Since I have not placed the thermostat inside of the water neck on top of the engine, yet, I decided now would be an appropriate time to give the internal water passageways a final flush before buttoning it all up. A bit more of that upchuck-like substance flowed out. Not a lot, but enough to make it worth doing it. I opened up the petcock valve underneath the generator (black cylindrical object on right side of above picture) to drain the remaining water from the block. Dry as the desert. Hmmmm. Not good. I used a small nail and removed a bunch of goop. Still not any water flowing. I pulled out an old wire hangar and fastened a gentle hook at one end and was able to make it bend the internal corner and work its way upward. It didn't have to go very far before it broke through the levy and water flowed out. I then used a pipe cleaner to clean the remnants out.
Now I am really jonesing to make this engine start! I hooked all of the remaining little things up: spark plug wires, bent my fuel line from the pump to the carb and then the smaller wires to and from the coil. Now I thought I'd give it a go. I take the positive line from the battery to the starter (left side cylindrical object in the photo above) to turn it over. Nada. Starter wouldn't budge.
I take out the starter and fiddle and faddle and piddle and puddle with it. I can make it spin, not very fast, but worse of all, the Bendix drive will not push forward and engage the flywheel. AAAArghhh.
Oh, well. I ned to establish oil pressure, anyways. To do this, I removed the oil gauge line that is near the base of the bell housing on the driver's side. There is a pressure release valve on the oil pump. I removed the large bolt and then I could take out the spring and plunger inside. I filled the void with as much oil as I could (using my original oil can mounted in the engine compartment of the good jeep!) It always makes me feel giddy inside to use my old tools. With oil in the passageway, I slowly rotated the crank nut on the engine until the oil was sucked inside the pump. And then I filled it up again! I turned the crank a few more times and then put the plunger, spring and nut back into place. I then vigourously spun my hand crank (with spark plugs out to make it spin faster-less resistance) until I saw a steady stream of oil spew out of the oil line near the bell housing. Pump is primed and we have oil flowing through the engine block.
So, while I am now contemplating other starter options, I decided to turn my attention to cleaning up and repairing (if needed) all of the dashboard gauges. And at least three of them need to be repaired, so I am going to document that in a separate post.
Starter....aaaaarrrrggghhhh.
UPDATED...about 15 minutes later after pressing the submit button!!!!!
After spending the better part of the morning tracking down a lack of spark/weak spark from the distributor to the spark plugs, I ended up replacing the distributor cap and rotor with a new pair. I then used my hand crank bar (standard issue to these vehicles back in the day), but still could not get the engine to roar to life. I did feel a bit of "kick back" so I knew I was at least on the right track. I resorted to my trusty Technical Manual and did some trouble shooting. I figured the problem was somewhere in the distributor. I wanted to make sure all was set correctly with the number one cylinder sitting at TDC. (top dead center) When I had it in place, I opened up the distributor again and noticed that the points were all the way opened. The manual says that at TDC, the points in the distributor should be in the beginning stages of opening. I loosened the bolts that hold the dizzy in place and turned it ever so slightly to get it into position and then buttoned it back up. Since it is not hooked up to any fuel supply, I squirted a bit of starting fluid into the carb...couple of turns with the hand crank and POOF...the engine roared for second!
VIDEO TO BE INSERTED HERE WHEN I FIGURE THE DARN THING OUT.
(yes, I had the forsight/stupidity to film it)
NOW I CAN MATE THE TUB ONTO THE CHASSIS!!
(since I have a reasonable amount of confidence that the engine works)
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